Sensuality Saves the Day

PARIS — MAYBE it’s too many hours on Twitter that causes people to reduce fashion shows to a check-off list of essentials, but whatever it is, writers at the spring men’s collections here were ticking the appropriate boxes: globalism, gender games, the new sobriety.
This approach doesn’t seek to explore fuzzier sensibilities, or even brewing passions, so much as it surrounds them with a garnish, something that any good host knows to do when the plate looks bare. A few collections did seem ruggedly global in their cultural reach. In his debut as the new men’s designer at Louis Vuitton, Kim Jones mixed classic travel gear with Masai checks and khaki inspired in part by his own African boyhood.